History
"San Miguel": Some features of its history
There are many taverns in the city as the old folk song says: “Wild Cordova city/which between old and modern/ has three hundred taverns/ and only one library.” But perhaps one of the most distinguished is the tavern of San Miguel located in the square and next to the church from which it receives its name. Due to its location in the very heart of the city, it has been throughout its long existence, a meeting point and a place of relaxation for all classes of society in Cordova. Artists, bullfighters, intellectuals, scientists, farmers, merchants, traders, and even the Cordovan picaresque used to go to the Holy place to taste the good wines and have a good time. Some of whom, as we shall see later, were the “terrific and pompous.”
Distant are the origins of this temple erected in honour of the pagan God Baco. It seems that at the beginning of the present century the rising Guerrita Club was established. A folk club lead by the Caliph Rafael and his cohort of friends both intimate as well as chums. Rafael Rodríguez known as “Calzones” ran that little kingdom of San Miguel. He worked as the ‘’Barman’’ which is what people usually call the finest bartenders. That is how the famous establishment started. Little after that the business was taken over by the truck farmers called the Garrido brothers. During this time the tavern saw the regular attendance of famous bullfighters such as “Vizcaya”, “Manolete” (father), Manuel de la Haba Zurito, Antonio de Dios known as “Conejito”, “Cantimplas”, “Recalcao”, “Pataterito”, and not to mention other just as famous bullfighters.
Anecdotally speaking, “Manolete” (father) who was somewhat superstitious never entered or left through the main door but through the back door which lead to the road of San Zoilo. Stories about “ Recalcao” say that one day when he was playing dominoes he was losing and left without being able to play his double six tile so he hid the tile so well that he nearly choked until the point that he had to be taken to hospital. During this time other well-known men also used to visit the tavern such as the clergyman Canales known as “El feo Canales”, the chairperson of the hearing at that time Mr. Jose Villalba, the Colonel of Sagunt Mr. José Uzqueta y Benítez, the magistrate Francisco Martínez Beltrán, a famous criminal lawyer who got lumbered with having to defend the criminal Serena who committed a triple homicide on Christmas Eve. All what we have been discussing would have taken place during the second decade of the century. However the really Caliphal period reached its peak around the year 1925 when the “Barman” Mr. Francisco Molleja was discovered. He was popular and well-suited for the job. They were the times when San Miguel relied on two barmen with both floors full of people. Clients such as “Machaco”, the lawyer Mr. Rafael Mescas, the picador “Pegote”, the rancher Mr. Antonio García Pedrajas, all popular apprentice bullfighters, traders, butchers and even the consul of the towns of Castro and Espejo established and run by Mr. Antonio León who people used to go to for help with their agricultural problems. A very select Cordovan underworld would visit as here amongst the jokes and liveliness they were deprived from doing their own thing. People like “Kaiser” a well-know charioteer, “Comparito” and his buddy “Cebollo” always accompanied by “Cojo Cantares”, and other just as funny characters such as “Olmito” and “Herrero Malo” and the well-known “Calañés”, a peer of Chacón and Juan Brevas.
“Manolete”, who was a Young boy at the time used to go to the tavern with his uncle Francisco Rodríguez (the butcher), better known by his nick name “El Primo”. Likewise, the great Julio Romero, genius of Cordovan painting dressed in his classic Cordovan outfit used to taste the sweet “nectar” of San Miguel in the company of artists, writers and bullfighters. He even left his mark by decorating part of the tavern with a painting of a dark-haired buxom woman. Funny anecdotes of the time about “Espeleño”, an extremely famous trader say that he had had a bit to drink and wanted to cut off certain organs from the director Paco Molleja who naturally ran out in search of the police station. Well-known were the witty remarks of the trader Frasquito known as “El tío de los botones”, who had the custom of ordering from the Pipo seafood shop two “reales” worth of squid.
A special mention must be made for the most frequent and notable clients who used to attend such as the presence of the famous Mr. Gabriel Calderón better known as “Tito Gabriel”. One day had been drinking for twelve hours at the counter and then decided to say to his friend that had accompanied him, “Don’t you think we should sit down?” And more recently, the industrialist Mr. Manuel Pericet passed by with his wife’s brother-in-law Mr. Antonio Hernández who was a popular businessman and holder of the very modern bleach factory (Copos) which had the motto: “For friends it’s all you can eat.” We must also mention our current clientele like Manolo Roldán, “El Panaderito”. During his times as a picador he went to Granada on horseback to take part in a bullfight as a reserve. In those times he used to say the following about his brilliant bullfighting career; “I am a picador by profession and a baker in my free time”. There are so many other people to mention that if we did, the list would be endless.
Following this tradition today we see behind the counter paying close attention to the board and the till the popular “Adolfi” (Adolfo la Rosa Roldán). Artists, lawyers, journalists, businessmen, farmers, etc visit this holy place and even people just passing by.
These are, dear reader, the notes that we can offer you so you can get to know San Miguel. An edenic place where you can try exquisite wines from 24, “Fino San Miguel”, “Trifi” and the renamed “Moriles”, “La Maceta” named so, not because of its quality, which is very good, but because on top of the barrel there is a flowery plant pot. The rosy, sparkling liquid is served by Adolfito and his special charm for 2’50 and 4’50 pesetas in ample water glasses where you can appreciate that life has its moments of happiness and how good it is to live them.
